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Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Mixture
Back

Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Seed Mix is a beautiful mixture of annuals and perennials that will give you a colorful display for years to come.

Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Seed Mix is a great addition to your landscape and garden areas. Wildflower seed mixtures are great for attracting hummingbirds, songbirds and wildlife.

Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Mixture is Non-GMO.

Adaptation:

This Southeastern Wildflower seed mix has a planting range that includes Northern Florida, Alabama, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Tennessee, Arkansas, Mississippi, Louisiana, Eastern Oklahoma, and Eastern Texas.

Mixture:

Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Mixture contains:

  • Baby's Breath - WHITE
  • Scarlet Flax - RED
  • Perennial Lupine - PURPLE
  • Rocket Larkspur - PURPLE/PINK/WHITE
  • Purple Coneflower - PURPLE
  • Lance Leaved Coreopsis - YELLOW
  • California Poppy - ORANGE
  • Corn Poppy Mixed - RED/PINK/WHITE
  • Clasping Coneflower- YELLOW
  • Plains Coreopsis - RED/YELLOW
  • Black-Eyed Susan - YELLOW
  • Indian Blanketflower - RED/YELLOW
  • Bachelor Buttons Dwarf - BLUE
  • Dame's Rocket - PURPLE
  • African Daisy - ORANGE/YELLOW
  • Evening Primrose - YELLOW
  • Mexican Hat - RED/YELLOW

Our wildflower mixtures are formulated on the basis of climatic conditions (rainfall, temperature range, humidity) and elevation. Most species in our mixtures adapt readily to different soil types provided climate and elevation are suitable. Annuals have been included to establish cover quickly and to give color the first year; some may produce new plants the following year (the biennials may also reseed). Perennial plants live for more than two years, and most flower from the second year onward.

These mixtures are blended to give the widest possible range of colors and periods of bloom. Very few wildflowers bloom continually throughout the season; therefore, we have included spring, summer, and fall-blooming species in each mixture. Colors include blue, purple, red, white, yellow and pink. Heights vary from 10 in. to 8 ft.

In general, our mixtures are formulated to contain approximately equal numbers of seeds of each species. This varies somewhat because of costs, availability and/or climatic conditions. We strive for a balance of the highest quality for each geographic area.

Mixtures may vary occasionally from the indicated listing, based on availability of individual species.

Seed Quality

Most wildflower seeds and mixtures have a purity of 95-99% and total viable seed percentages of between 70-95%. The total viable seed percentage is the germination percentage, plus the hard seed or dormant seed percentage. Hard seeds have impermeable seed coatings and cannot imbibe water during seed testing. Dormant seeds are viable seeds that have specific physical or physiological conditions that prevent the seed from germinating at the time of seed testing. The PLS (Pure Live Seed) is obtained by multiplying the percent purity by the percent total viable seed and then dividing by 100.

HSC SKU# 187

Back
Climate Zone(s)
Transition Zone
Warm Season
Depth
1/4 in.
Ideal pH
5.5 - 7.00
Seeding Rate
1 lb. / 1,000 sq. ft. 22 - 26 lbs. / acre
Soil Type
Tolerant
When to Plant
Spring, Fall
Back


Sowing wildflower seeds without care and planning usually produces unsatisfactory results. Here are some important factors to consider: Does the site support plants now? If you have a site where nothing, including weeds, is growing, that site is unlikely to support wildflowers. Will there be adequate moisture during germination and establishment? Can you supply supplemental water, if necessary? What weed seeds are likely to be present in the soil? Will weeds spread to your site from adjacent areas? Assessment of these factors will enable you to make a realistic choice of a site where wildflowers will prosper and to decide what action will be necessary to ensure your success.

Best results will be obtained by planting on cleared ground. Remove existing vegetation to avoid competition from other plants. This may be done by pulling, tilling under, spraying with a general herbicide, or by a combination of these methods, depending upon the size of the area, type, and density of vegetation, or other factors. Loosen soil by scraping, tilling, or scarifying. Tilling should be utilized only when soil is very compacted and further weed control measures can be taken.

Plant 2 lbs. per 4,000 sq.ft., or 22-26 lbs. per acre. There are approximately 350,000 seeds per lb.

Method of application depends on the size of the area and the terrain. On small areas, broadcast seeds evenly, either by hand or by use of a drop or cyclone spreader. It is helpful to mix a carrier such as clean, dry sand with the seed; sand adds volume and aids in even distribution. We recommend using a ratio of one or two parts sand to one part seed. Rake in lightly, covering seeds to a maximum depth of 2-3 times their thickness. You may also drag the area lightly with a piece of chain link fence to mix the seed into the surface of the soil. For seeding large areas, more than one acre, specially-designed drills are most effective. Drill to a maximum of 1/4 in. and firm the soil with a cultipacker; this maximizes seed/soil contact. Hydroseeders are also effective, especially for steep slopes, rocky terrain, and other areas where conditions make it impractical for other methods of seed application.

Hydroseeding is the application of a slurry of seed and water to soil. The slurry may also contain mulch (hydromulching), a tackifier, and/or fertilizer. Mulches are made of wood fiber, paper or excelsior, and their purpose is to hold seeds in place, help retain moisture and, and provide protection from erosion; mulches are usually dyed green as a visual aid for even distribution. Rates of application for most mulches are between 1,500 and 2,300 lbs. per acre. In general, hydroseeding/hydromulching is most successful in moist climates or in irrigated areas.

Most authorities agree that germination is better when seed is applied first with 5-10% of the mulching fiber...the balance of the mulch being applied separately as a second step. This approach ensures optimal seed/soil contact; otherwise, many seeds are wasted because they become suspended in the fiber.

It is important that proper procedures are followed to minimize the amount of time that seed is circulated through pumps or paddles prior to application. Over-circulation may damage the seed.

The best time to plant in your area depends on the climate and rainfall patterns, as well as the species you are planting. In cool climates, plant annuals, perennials or mixtures of annuals and perennials during Spring, early Summer or late Fall. Fall plantings should be late enough so that seeds do not germinate until Spring. Perennials can also be sown in early fall provided that there are at least 10-12 weeks of growing time before the plants go dormant for the winter. Late fall plantings are advantageous when supplemental irrigation cannot be provided and adequate rainfall is anticipated during the Spring.

Plant during the cooler months of the year, fall through spring, for best results in mild climates. Fall plantings done prior to periods of rainfall will ensure an early display of flowers the following Spring.

Fertilization

Many wildflowers benefit from some fertilization if the soil does not have adequate nutrients. Some wildflowers do fine in poor soils, while others require a more fertile environment. We recommend that a soil test be performed when soil quality is unknown. If the soil needs improvement, use a low nitrogen fertilizer with a 5-10-10 ratio or add organic matter such as weed-free straw or grass clippings, well-rotted compost, peat moss, or leaf mold. In addition to adding nutrients, organic materials enhance soil structure and encourage beneficial microorganisms. Avoid over-fertilizing, which may promote weed growth and lush foliage rather than flowers.

Moisture

All seeds, including wildflowers, need ample moisture to germinate and to develop into healthy seedlings. Best results will be obtained by soaking the planted areas thoroughly and maintaining consistent moisture for 4-6 weeks, and then gradually reducing waterings. Plant in the spring or before periods of anticipated rainfall In non-irrigated situations. Watering may be reduced depending on the climate and rainfall after seedlings are established. In arid climates or during drought conditions, up to 1/2 in. of supplemental water per week may be required to maintain an optimal display. If weeds are present, remember that they benefit from moisture as much as the wildflowers and may dominate overwatered areas.

Weed Control

Weed control is the biggest problem facing plant establishment, and one which has no easy solution. Weed seeds are present in many situations and lie dormant, but viable, for long periods. A weedy area converted to wildflowers will have a large reservoir of weed seeds in the soil, ready to germinate when conditions are favorable. In most cases, it is advisable to consider weed control in two phases?as part of site preparation prior to planting, and as an important component of the post-germination maintenance program.

Before planting, remove existing weeds by pulling, tilling under, applying a glyphosate herbicide such as Roundup®, or by a combination of these methods. For additional weed control after site preparation, a soil fumigant may be used, or the area may be irrigated to encourage weed growth and then sprayed with a general herbicide.

In very weedy areas, the following method is suggested: Till soil or spray vegetation with Roundup®. When using an herbicide, allow vegetation to die, then rake out the dead debris. If perennial weeds such as bindweed are present, using an herbicide is more effective than tilling. Irrigate to encourage germination of weed seeds near the surface. Most seeds will germinate within two weeks if consistent moisture is available. Do not till the soil again because this will bring even more weed seeds up to the surface. Spray any new growth with Roundup®. After raking out dead vegetation, allow soil to recover for 3-4 weeks before planting seed. In our experience, a recovery period of this duration is advisable because extensive use of glyphosate herbicides may cause a delay in germination and in the vigorous growth of seedlings.

Once the seeds have germinated, further weed control is usually necessary. If practical, pull all weeds as soon as they can be identified.

Other successful techniques are spot-spraying with a general herbicide or selectively cutting weeds with a string trimmer. Be sure to remove weeds before they reseed.

Many unwanted annual and some perennial grasses can be controlled with the herbicides Grass-B-Gon®, Ornamec®, and Fusilade®. These post-emergents do not affect broad-leaved plants, so they can be applied over existing flowers. They are most effective when sprayed on new growth and young plants. Take care to avoid treating areas with desirable native grasses or fescues.

Uses of Grasses

Wildflowers can be sown alone or with grasses. In the southeastern states of Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi and South Carolina, we recommend warm-season grasses. Warm-season grasses to consider include Gramas, Buffalo Grass and Bluestems. These grasses grow very slowly and are planted for aesthetic and ecological reasons, rather than prompt stabilization of soil.

Aggressive grasses should be avoided because they will crowd out most wildflowers; these grasses include Kentucky Bluegrass, Smooth Brome, Crested Wheatgrass, Bermuda Grass, and Annual Rye. If wildflowers must be used with these grasses, the flowers should be planted in high-density patches, as accents to the grassed areas. Or the flowers may be sown with the grasses if the planting rates of the grasses are reduced significantly.

What to Expect

Wildflowers can provide an excellent, low-cost alternative in large-scale, high-maintenance situations, as well as a satisfying change from traditional urban landscaping. However, during their initial establishment period, wildflowers require as much maintenance as traditional plantings.

A smooth, weed and vegetation-free planting bed is important for good seed-soil contact and prompt germination. Avoid seeding more than the recommended rate, as overseeding can result in crowded conditions the first year and poor establishment of perennials. Cover seeds lightly to protect them from drying out during germination, and to prevent them from being eaten by birds. Consistent moisture is important for 4-6 weeks after planting.

A wildflower planting requires the same weed control measures as traditional landscaping. Effective measures include site preparation prior to planting and a post-germination maintenance program.

Most of Hancock's wildflower mixes contain annual, biennial and perennial species. The annuals, which may not be native to your area, are included to assure maximum color during the first season and to act as a nurse crop for the slower-growing perennials. Annuals germinate quickly when conditions are favorable, providing a quick ground cover and competition against weeds. Natural reseeding of annuals ranges from significant to minimal, depending on the species, climate, soil texture and other factors. Most perennial and biennial species begin to bloom the second season, but not as profusely as annuals. Therefore, wildflower plantings look noticeably different after the first year.

Sometimes it is desirable, or even necessary, to sow seed in second and subsequent years. Reseeding may be necessary if establishment of wildflowers is spotty or poor. It is possible to reseed bare areas with the original mixture. Loosen soil of bare areas and provide adequate weed control and supplemental irrigation as needed. Where natural reseeding of annuals is minimal, sowing annuals each spring can produce a magnificent annual and perennial display throughout the growing season.

If desired, wildflowers may be mowed in the Fall following seed set. Mow to a height of 4-6 inches, and leave the residue on the ground because it is a reservoir of viable seeds.

Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Mixture

Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Mixture Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Mixture Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Mixture Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Mixture Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Mixture Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Mixture Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Mixture Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Mixture Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Mixture
Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Mix is the perfect alternative to traditional landscaping for those living from North Carolina on down to Florida, and as far west as east Texas.
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Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Seed Mix is a beautiful mixture of annuals and perennials that will give you a colorful display for years to come. Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Seed Mix is a great addition to your landscape and garden areas. Wildflower seed...
Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Seed Mix is a beautiful mixture of annuals and perennials that will give you a colorful display for years to come. Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Seed Mix is a great addition to your landscape and garden areas. Wildflower seed mixtures are great for attracting hummingbirds, songbirds and wildlife. Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Mixture is Non-GMO. Adaptation: This Southeastern Wildflower seed mix has a planting range that includes Northern Florida, Alabama, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Tennessee, Arkansas, Mississippi, Louisiana, Eastern Oklahoma, and Eastern Texas. Mixture: Hancock's Southeast Wildflower Mixture contains: Baby's Breath - WHITE Scarlet Flax - RED Perennial Lupine - PURPLE Rocket Larkspur - PURPLE/PINK/WHITE Purple Coneflower - PURPLE Lance Leaved Coreopsis - YELLOW California Poppy - ORANGE Corn Poppy Mixed - RED/PINK/WHITE Clasping Coneflower- YELLOW Plains Coreopsis - RED/YELLOW Black-Eyed Susan - YELLOW Indian Blanketflower - RED/YELLOW Bachelor Buttons Dwarf - BLUE Dame's Rocket - PURPLE African Daisy - ORANGE/YELLOW Evening Primrose - YELLOW Mexican Hat - RED/YELLOW Our wildflower mixtures are formulated on the basis of climatic conditions (rainfall, temperature range, humidity) and elevation. Most species in our mixtures adapt readily to different soil types provided climate and elevation are suitable. Annuals have been included to establish cover quickly and to give color the first year; some may produce new plants the following year (the biennials may also reseed). Perennial plants live for more than two years, and most flower from the second year onward. These mixtures are blended to give the widest possible range of colors and periods of bloom. Very few wildflowers bloom continually throughout the season; therefore, we have included spring, summer, and fall-blooming species in each mixture. Colors include blue, purple, red, white, yellow and pink. Heights vary from 10 in. to 8 ft. In general, our mixtures are formulated to contain approximately equal numbers of seeds of each species. This varies somewhat because of costs, availability and/or climatic conditions. We strive for a balance of the highest quality for each geographic area. Mixtures may vary occasionally from the indicated listing, based on availability of individual species. Seed Quality Most wildflower seeds and mixtures have a purity of 95-99% and total viable seed percentages of between 70-95%. The total viable seed percentage is the germination percentage, plus the hard seed or dormant seed percentage. Hard seeds have impermeable seed coatings and cannot imbibe water during seed testing. Dormant seeds are viable seeds that have specific physical or physiological conditions that prevent the seed from germinating at the time of seed testing. The PLS (Pure Live Seed) is obtained by multiplying the percent purity by the percent total viable seed and then dividing by 100. HSC SKU# 187
Climate Zone(s)
Transition Zone
Warm Season
Depth
1/4 in.
Ideal pH
5.5 - 7.00
Seeding Rate
1 lb. / 1,000 sq. ft. 22 - 26 lbs. / acre
Soil Type
Tolerant
When to Plant
Spring, Fall

Instructions

Sowing wildflower seeds without care and planning usually produces unsatisfactory results. Here are some important factors to consider: Does the site support plants now? If you have a site where nothing, including weeds, is growing, that site is unlikely to support...
Sowing wildflower seeds without care and planning usually produces unsatisfactory results. Here are some important factors to consider: Does the site support plants now? If you have a site where nothing, including weeds, is growing, that site is unlikely to support wildflowers. Will there be adequate moisture during germination and establishment? Can you supply supplemental water, if necessary? What weed seeds are likely to be present in the soil? Will weeds spread to your site from adjacent areas? Assessment of these factors will enable you to make a realistic choice of a site where wildflowers will prosper and to decide what action will be necessary to ensure your success. Best results will be obtained by planting on cleared ground. Remove existing vegetation to avoid competition from other plants. This may be done by pulling, tilling under, spraying with a general herbicide, or by a combination of these methods, depending upon the size of the area, type, and density of vegetation, or other factors. Loosen soil by scraping, tilling, or scarifying. Tilling should be utilized only when soil is very compacted and further weed control measures can be taken. Plant 2 lbs. per 4,000 sq.ft., or 22-26 lbs. per acre. There are approximately 350,000 seeds per lb. Method of application depends on the size of the area and the terrain. On small areas, broadcast seeds evenly, either by hand or by use of a drop or cyclone spreader. It is helpful to mix a carrier such as clean, dry sand with the seed; sand adds volume and aids in even distribution. We recommend using a ratio of one or two parts sand to one part seed. Rake in lightly, covering seeds to a maximum depth of 2-3 times their thickness. You may also drag the area lightly with a piece of chain link fence to mix the seed into the surface of the soil. For seeding large areas, more than one acre, specially-designed drills are most effective. Drill to a maximum of 1/4 in. and firm the soil with a cultipacker; this maximizes seed/soil contact. Hydroseeders are also effective, especially for steep slopes, rocky terrain, and other areas where conditions make it impractical for other methods of seed application. Hydroseeding is the application of a slurry of seed and water to soil. The slurry may also contain mulch (hydromulching), a tackifier, and/or fertilizer. Mulches are made of wood fiber, paper or excelsior, and their purpose is to hold seeds in place, help retain moisture and, and provide protection from erosion; mulches are usually dyed green as a visual aid for even distribution. Rates of application for most mulches are between 1,500 and 2,300 lbs. per acre. In general, hydroseeding/hydromulching is most successful in moist climates or in irrigated areas. Most authorities agree that germination is better when seed is applied first with 5-10% of the mulching fiber...the balance of the mulch being applied separately as a second step. This approach ensures optimal seed/soil contact; otherwise, many seeds are wasted because they become suspended in the fiber. It is important that proper procedures are followed to minimize the amount of time that seed is circulated through pumps or paddles prior to application. Over-circulation may damage the seed. The best time to plant in your area depends on the climate and rainfall patterns, as well as the species you are planting. In cool climates, plant annuals, perennials or mixtures of annuals and perennials during Spring, early Summer or late Fall. Fall plantings should be late enough so that seeds do not germinate until Spring. Perennials can also be sown in early fall provided that there are at least 10-12 weeks of growing time before the plants go dormant for the winter. Late fall plantings are advantageous when supplemental irrigation cannot be provided and adequate rainfall is anticipated during the Spring. Plant during the cooler months of the year, fall through spring, for best results in mild climates. Fall plantings done prior to periods of rainfall will ensure an early display of flowers the following Spring. Fertilization Many wildflowers benefit from some fertilization if the soil does not have adequate nutrients. Some wildflowers do fine in poor soils, while others require a more fertile environment. We recommend that a soil test be performed when soil quality is unknown. If the soil needs improvement, use a low nitrogen fertilizer with a 5-10-10 ratio or add organic matter such as weed-free straw or grass clippings, well-rotted compost, peat moss, or leaf mold. In addition to adding nutrients, organic materials enhance soil structure and encourage beneficial microorganisms. Avoid over-fertilizing, which may promote weed growth and lush foliage rather than flowers. Moisture All seeds, including wildflowers, need ample moisture to germinate and to develop into healthy seedlings. Best results will be obtained by soaking the planted areas thoroughly and maintaining consistent moisture for 4-6 weeks, and then gradually reducing waterings. Plant in the spring or before periods of anticipated rainfall In non-irrigated situations. Watering may be reduced depending on the climate and rainfall after seedlings are established. In arid climates or during drought conditions, up to 1/2 in. of supplemental water per week may be required to maintain an optimal display. If weeds are present, remember that they benefit from moisture as much as the wildflowers and may dominate overwatered areas. Weed Control Weed control is the biggest problem facing plant establishment, and one which has no easy solution. Weed seeds are present in many situations and lie dormant, but viable, for long periods. A weedy area converted to wildflowers will have a large reservoir of weed seeds in the soil, ready to germinate when conditions are favorable. In most cases, it is advisable to consider weed control in two phases?as part of site preparation prior to planting, and as an important component of the post-germination maintenance program. Before planting, remove existing weeds by pulling, tilling under, applying a glyphosate herbicide such as Roundup®, or by a combination of these methods. For additional weed control after site preparation, a soil fumigant may be used, or the area may be irrigated to encourage weed growth and then sprayed with a general herbicide. In very weedy areas, the following method is suggested: Till soil or spray vegetation with Roundup®. When using an herbicide, allow vegetation to die, then rake out the dead debris. If perennial weeds such as bindweed are present, using an herbicide is more effective than tilling. Irrigate to encourage germination of weed seeds near the surface. Most seeds will germinate within two weeks if consistent moisture is available. Do not till the soil again because this will bring even more weed seeds up to the surface. Spray any new growth with Roundup®. After raking out dead vegetation, allow soil to recover for 3-4 weeks before planting seed. In our experience, a recovery period of this duration is advisable because extensive use of glyphosate herbicides may cause a delay in germination and in the vigorous growth of seedlings. Once the seeds have germinated, further weed control is usually necessary. If practical, pull all weeds as soon as they can be identified. Other successful techniques are spot-spraying with a general herbicide or selectively cutting weeds with a string trimmer. Be sure to remove weeds before they reseed. Many unwanted annual and some perennial grasses can be controlled with the herbicides Grass-B-Gon®, Ornamec®, and Fusilade®. These post-emergents do not affect broad-leaved plants, so they can be applied over existing flowers. They are most effective when sprayed on new growth and young plants. Take care to avoid treating areas with desirable native grasses or fescues. Uses of Grasses Wildflowers can be sown alone or with grasses. In the southeastern states of Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi and South Carolina, we recommend warm-season grasses. Warm-season grasses to consider include Gramas, Buffalo Grass and Bluestems. These grasses grow very slowly and are planted for aesthetic and ecological reasons, rather than prompt stabilization of soil. Aggressive grasses should be avoided because they will crowd out most wildflowers; these grasses include Kentucky Bluegrass, Smooth Brome, Crested Wheatgrass, Bermuda Grass, and Annual Rye. If wildflowers must be used with these grasses, the flowers should be planted in high-density patches, as accents to the grassed areas. Or the flowers may be sown with the grasses if the planting rates of the grasses are reduced significantly. What to Expect Wildflowers can provide an excellent, low-cost alternative in large-scale, high-maintenance situations, as well as a satisfying change from traditional urban landscaping. However, during their initial establishment period, wildflowers require as much maintenance as traditional plantings. A smooth, weed and vegetation-free planting bed is important for good seed-soil contact and prompt germination. Avoid seeding more than the recommended rate, as overseeding can result in crowded conditions the first year and poor establishment of perennials. Cover seeds lightly to protect them from drying out during germination, and to prevent them from being eaten by birds. Consistent moisture is important for 4-6 weeks after planting. A wildflower planting requires the same weed control measures as traditional landscaping. Effective measures include site preparation prior to planting and a post-germination maintenance program. Most of Hancock's wildflower mixes contain annual, biennial and perennial species. The annuals, which may not be native to your area, are included to assure maximum color during the first season and to act as a nurse crop for the slower-growing perennials. Annuals germinate quickly when conditions are favorable, providing a quick ground cover and competition against weeds. Natural reseeding of annuals ranges from significant to minimal, depending on the species, climate, soil texture and other factors. Most perennial and biennial species begin to bloom the second season, but not as profusely as annuals. Therefore, wildflower plantings look noticeably different after the first year. Sometimes it is desirable, or even necessary, to sow seed in second and subsequent years. Reseeding may be necessary if establishment of wildflowers is spotty or poor. It is possible to reseed bare areas with the original mixture. Loosen soil of bare areas and provide adequate weed control and supplemental irrigation as needed. Where natural reseeding of annuals is minimal, sowing annuals each spring can produce a magnificent annual and perennial display throughout the growing season. If desired, wildflowers may be mowed in the Fall following seed set. Mow to a height of 4-6 inches, and leave the residue on the ground because it is a reservoir of viable seeds.
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